Shumen, Bulgaria

Capital City

Forget the postcard views - at 66,641 residents, Shumen is a mid-sized Bulgarian city facing real challenges. The Ottoman legacy lingers in the form of a 'strongly fortified military town' and a large Muslim minority, which has led to persistent bureaucratic headaches. And while the city boasts a rich cultural heritage, including the 1,300-year-old monument that dominates the skyline, modernization has been uneven, with the town's iconic restaurants and hotels only recently rebuilt after decades of neglect. For those seeking an authentic, gritty Bulgarian experience, Shumen may be worth considering, but its blend of old and new is not for the faint of heart.