Khujand, Tajikistan

Capital City

Living in Khujand is a stark reality check. The city's population stands at 160,458, but the infrastructure struggles to keep up. Bureaucracy is a persistent headache - just look at the case of Pastor Bakhrom Kholmatov, jailed for three years for "interfering with the comfort and rest" of his neighbors by singing too loudly at church. And the climate here is no picnic, with bitterly cold, snowy winters and scorching, dry summers.

Yet Khujand has a storied history as a major hub on the Silk Road, with remnants of its Hellenistic past and a vibrant cultural scene. The city has bounced back from occupation by everyone from Alexander the Great to the Soviet Union. For the hardy, this regional capital offers a glimpse into Central Asia's complex past and present.

This city is not for the faint of heart, but those willing to navigate its challenges may find Khujand a rewarding experience.