Gwalior, India

The fort-capped city of Gwalior is hardly the glamorous getaway many imagine - a 6th-century hill fort, yes, but also a persistent bureaucratic headache. While the fort impresses with its grandeur, housing 6 palaces and 11 Jain temples, the modern city grapples with the legacy of its 1,500-year history. Frequent changes in control have left a mark, with the British East India Company capturing the fort in a daring 1780 raid that saw fewer than 20 casualties on both sides. Today, the fort remains a point of pride, but navigating the city's complex past is a challenge. Those seeking an authentic Indian experience may find Gwalior rewarding, but the uninitiated should brace for a certain administrative persistence.