Foca (Foča), Bosnia and Herzegovina

Capital City

Twelve thousand residents may seem like a cozy community, but Foca (Foča) is no idyllic Balkan hamlet. This former site of ethnic cleansing and war crimes has slowly rebuilt itself, though around 4,000 displaced Bosniaks have returned to their homes. Bureaucracy remains a persistent headache, and attempts to memorialize the town's dark past have faced obstruction from local officials. The Sutjeska National Park may offer natural beauty, but the municipality's history casts a long shadow. This is a town that demands resilience and a strong stomach from would-be expats.